This has the subtlety of fine Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. It pours pale straw in the glass; there a stony breadth and depth on the nose, that carries just a hint of what’s to come: a subtle citrus-grapefruit note and an edge of green herbs.

There’s a surprising ripeness on the palate, as the fruit comes forward, adding some red and green apple, while the wine retains its stony firmness. Really terrific.